Australian Carpet Cleaning Institute, ACCI

Tech post 01

admin — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:51:30 +0000

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna aliquam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis at vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi.

Epsum factorial non deposit quid pro quo hic escorol. Olypian quarrels et gorilla congolium sic ad nauseum. Souvlaki ignitus carborundum e pluribus unum. Defacto lingo est igpay atinlay. Marquee selectus non provisio incongruous feline nolo contendre. Gratuitous octopus niacin, sodium glutimate. Quote meon an estimate et non interruptus stadium. Sic tempus fugit esperanto hiccup estrogen. Glorious baklava ex librus hup hey ad infinitum. Non sequitur condominium facile et geranium incognito. Epsum factorial non deposit quid pro quo hic escorol. Marquee selectus non provisio incongruous feline nolo contendre Olypian quarrels et gorilla congolium sic ad nauseum. Souvlaki ignitus carborundum e pluribus unum.

Li Europan lingues es membres del sam familie. Lor separat existentie es un myth. Por scientie, musica, sport etc, li tot Europa usa li sam vocabularium. Li lingues differe solmen in li grammatica, li pronunciation e li plu commun vocabules. Omnicos directe al desirabilita; de un nov lingua franca: on refusa continuar payar custosi traductores. It solmen va esser necessi far uniform grammatica, pronunciation e plu sommun paroles.

Ma quande lingues coalesce, li grammatica del resultant lingue es plu simplic e regulari quam ti del coalescent lingues. Li nov lingua franca va esser plu simplic e regulari quam li existent Europan lingues. It va esser tam simplic quam Occidental: in fact, it va esser Occidental. A un Angleso it va semblar un simplificat Angles, quam un skeptic Cambridge amico dit me que Occidental es.

Newsletter Archives

admin — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:39:20 +0000

Our most popular emails sent out in 2009.

2009 e-news 9

The trouble with encapping is…….

Getting it right.

My first experience with encapping in 2003 was at the very least jaw dropping, simply because I could see the impact it would have on the industry. Carpet cleaners would never have a better opportunity to make so much from so little outlay for so little physical effort. I saw it as the most significant development in the history of the industry. Carpet cleaners all over the world have never had it better.

But the trouble with encapping is that it has been over sold on the basis that is so simple and, if anything, the opposite is true. Getting it right is more difficult than one would think.

For the last six months I have been spending most of my time on the road visiting ACCI members in their own territory trying to bring clarity to what has been vastly misunderstood and unfortunately poorly applied. Even techs who think they are getting great results are still mystified by inconsistent outcomes and tend to think that it’s a system that can only be effective when supported by HWE.The fact is that encapping requires far more skill, understanding and expertise than anyone would have you believe.

Encapping sounds simple …..vac the carpet, spray the detergent, scrub the carpet……you’re done! Well it’s just not that easy and therein lies the problem. Encapping, to get fantastic results, is only possible when you get everything right, every time. That means the right vacuum cleaner, the right sprayer with the right chemical and right amount on the floor, the right scrubber, the right pad/brush or combination of both to suit the carpet and the right application. From what I have seen by going out into the field there is a huge variation in these aspects. I cannot stress enough that you will never get the best results unless you have all the ducks in a row.

Encapping has turned everything we have previously learnt upside down so here is a series of emails with a checklist of encapping tips for you that covers each step in the process in detail. The first one is vacuuming.

Do I gotta?

I started cleaning carpets over 35 years ago when there was virtually nothing available in chemical, equipment and information. With so little choice it was frustrating and expensive trying to work out how to get the best results. HWE was not mainstream and all we had was rotary scrubbers with shampoo brushes and no pads. We quickly found out that the best results with rotary shampoo and brush were only possible with a thorough pre vacuum. If you didn’t THOROUGHLY vacuum the carpet you wouldn’t get the best results. Thirty five years later we have travelled full circle and the same rule still applies…..vac, vac and more vac.

But the carpet looks clean. It doesn’t need a vac.

In my experience carpet cleaners are always looking to cut corners and the first thing they will drop off is a thorough vacuum. Big mistake. We all know that 79% of the total soils in carpet is made up of dry particulate which is most effectively removed with a dry vacuum system, preferably a top quality commercial upright. Removing these soils vastly improves the encap results. Dry particulate will act like mini sponges and soak up the encap product preventing a complete encapsulation. The initial visible result will be less than optimum and the longevity of the clean will be reduced. What’s the point of a satisfactory result today if the carpet quickly resoils? Your entire future depends on maintaining a happy bunch of clients who come back year after year because they appreciate the value of your service. There’s no value when the carpet resoils in six weeks.

So the first rule is yes, ya gotta vacuum the carpet thoroughly before encapping, even when it looks clean.

Vacuuming… which one?

Choosing your vacuum cleaner is really a personal preference thing. Ten years ago we thought the Dyson uprights were the goods and they are still a popular choice for carpet cleaners. I have moved away from them.

There are several practical reasons:

It’s a domestic machine and it could be a bit embarrassing when you turn up to vac a client’s carpet and they have a later model than you. Professionals really need to be seen to have something better than the consumer.

Its irritating high pitched squeal in operation is bearable for the occasional user but all day every day is annoying to the ear as well as completely unsuitable for certain environments such as healthcare eg nursing homes.

It simply isn’t robust enough to handle boofy carpet cleaners knocking them around.

It is heavy in the hand and difficult to push over the carpet when compared to the commercial uprights available, some of which actually pull themselves along

The onboard tools and extension is cumbersome to use.

Changing belts? Cleaning the brush? Well don’t even mention that. What a pain ! I’ve got the scars to prove it.

Getting under low furniture is impossible.

Emptying the canister is an OHS nightmare and really requires PPE ie respirator and goggles to avoid ingestion of the fine pathogenic dust

Annie does the vacuuming and flat out refused to use the Dyson DC 14 because it was way too noisy, too difficult to maneuver over the carpet, too cumbersome to use the onboard tools and wouldn’t pick up fluff on low profile carpet. Then I had to empty the canister because she would cough and splutter in a personal dust cloud of pathogenic crud. How long can you hold your breath when emptying the canister full of fine particulate dust into a garbage bin? So much for being better for your health. Let’s face it the Dyson is an excellent choice for domestic use but it simply doesn’t cut it for the serious professional.

That said I did some online research and found that even when compared to other domestic vacuum cleaners the general consensus in various reviews were that Dyson ”didn’t hold any particular advantage over its competitors”

As an example Choice Magazine advised in their review on the Dyson Ball DC25 HEPA with a very mixed report with some good and some bad but did confirm my opinion on the obvious annoying traits

Scored only 58% for cleaning corners and along edges.

Noisiest model in the test combined with irritating high pitched noise.

Cleaning head is fairly tiring to move over the carpet.

Cleaning head is too high to reach under low furniture easily, and the handle cannot be pushed down all the way to ground level.

OK that wasn’t a surprise so I then looked at all the commercial uprights available including Hako, Nilfisk, SEBO, Taski & Windsor and discovered something very interesting. They all outperformed the Dyson in all aspects including the actual amount of soil retrieved by weight.

The really interesting thing was that although the Dyson appeared to be picking up a lot of dry particulate, it was in fact exaggerated by the cyclonic action fluffing up the dust much like a fairy floss machine, so a little looked like a lot. Great marketing tool but not what we really need as professionals when we are relying on superior performance to enhance our encapping results. In addition, all the commercial machines were far more robust which is clearly one of the reasons that Dyson do not recommend their machines for commercial use nor do they even make a commercial machine.

As professionals using a machine all day every day we need a machine that is the most efficient in soil pick up on all carpet profiles, quiet in operation, easy to push over the carpet, low enough to get under furniture and quick and easy to maintain. The Dyson does not fit that criteria.The Dyson’s strength is the fine filtration and funky good looks however it is a domestic machine only and cannot match the performance of the best commercial uprights. As far as being bagless is concerned I much prefer the sealed disposable paper bag, simply because the advantage of the bagless canister is lost when you have to empty it…..cough, cough, splutter, splutter.

If there is a downside to commercial uprights it is the cost of replacing the disposable paper bags however I don’t see it that way. I find it much easier and quicker to remove the paper bag from my SEBO G2 and throw it in the bin rather than fiddle around for what seems to be an eternity bashing the canister into the bin and getting covered in dust and then have to spend even more time washing the thing out. For me the convenience is well worth the $2.50 price tag.

The sealed belt on the G2 also means I can remove, clean and replace the brush in around two minutes. So in around two and a half minutes I can have my SEBO G2 fully serviced and ready to go next day. All the machines tested were under $1000.00 so performance rather than price is the key difference which is why I chose the SEBO.

Getting the brush off

The first time you switch on your new commercial upright, make sure you are vacuuming a level loop pile or even a multi level loop pile sisal. Make sure you are hanging on to the thing firmly because it will take off on you as the new brush combs through the carpet face yarn so well it will seem to be self propelled. Your reaction will be “WOW! This is awesome!” because it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to work out that this is incredibly efficient at doing what it is designed to do. Watch the pile stand up even on loop pile sisals. Only then will you appreciate the value of the machine with a brush that goes through the carpet rather than simply skims over the surface.

Now try the same exercise in six months time and see if you get that same feeling of efficiency. If you are using your vac on a daily basis I can guarantee it won’t pull out of your hand like the day it was new. Time to replace your brush and at around $60.00 that’s not a lot of money to invest on your front line dry soil weapon.

Replacing the bag

If you have a commercial upright it is critically important to remember that to maintain maximum efficiency manufacturers recommend that the bag be emptied once it is one third full. It is false economy to fill the bag to the max simply because the air flow and performance, drops off by around 50% once you pass that level. For me I replace the bag before every domestic job. Again it’s a small price to pay to maintain maximum performance.

Vacuum presentation

I like to think that one of the reasons a client thinks highly of us is the way we present our equipment in nothing but immaculate condition. When I was using a Dyson I would pull it completely apart once a week and wash it out completely and wipe down the entire machine. The same applies to my G2 however I don’t have to pull it apart. I simply wipe it down thoroughly and use a bit of Perc on a cloth to get rid of any furniture scuffs and black marks etc. It’s not a lot of time if you do it regularly and it definitely pays dividends because even though it is 3 years old it still looks as new.

SUMMARY

Remember, the idea of this series of emails is to get all the ducks in a row for the best possible encap results. Use these guidelines as a benchmark to check your encap process. Make the changes you may identify and I guarantee you will not look back.

If you want to cut out some of the guidelines I am offering then it will be reflected in your results. You may get away with an acceptable result in the short term by taking what seems to be a reasonable short-cut but success in encapping is about the longevity of the clean and that will only happen when those ducks are all lined up in a row.

Happy hunting.

2009 e-news 10

The trouble with encapping is……

Spray or direct feed?

There are two choices on how to apply your encap product. You can spray it on in the same manner as you would pre-spray for HWE or you can direct feed through a rotary shampoo tank. The question is, which is better?

Again it’s a personal preference thing. Performed correctly, both methods of application deliver the same results. One is not necessarily better than the other. I learnt my trade a hundred years ago with rotary shampoo (direct feed). I am one of the few old hands in the industry who can even remember earning a living with it. I believe I was good at it. So do the carpet manufacturers because I have taught rotary shampoo carpet cleaning in Hong Kong, mainland China and Malaysia on their behalf but I still prefer to spray encap rather than direct feed through the tank. The fact is most people prefer to spray as well. It’s the logical choice for a variety of reasons;

You have more accurate control of the detergent.
You don’t have to guess how much product is going down
You get a more even application of your product
Spraying won’t give you RSI or tendonitis in the left arm from continually pulling the scrubber release valve on and off hundreds of times a day
If you spray you don’t have to worry about emptying the tank when you are finished scrubbing so you can lift it back into the van
When you are spraying and you have to stop for an extended period you simply lay the scrubber down on its back. Direct feed means you can’t lay a scrubber down with a tank full of detergent without creating your very own water damage restoration or browning problem
When shampooing the extra weight of 10 kilos of water in the tank places more stress on your arms and lower back whenever you push, pull or swing your scrubber side to side

Having said that if you like to direct feed the detergent you may want to make a minor alteration to your rotary scrubber to avoid the tedious on, off, on, off with the feed valve by installing a simple inline tap to control the flow rate.

Remember that there is a delay in the time you pull the valve open and the time it actually hits the carpet.

Combination spray/direct feed

If you are looking to get a great result in the quickest time then ideally you would like to think that you get the perfect job with just one application of encap detergent but we all know that doesn’t always happen. Rather than stop, park the scrubber out of the way, get the sprayer and re apply, put that back out of the way, pick up the scrubber and re scrub the area you might want to consider an alternative.

Put say 5 litres of product in the tank and when you come across a dodgy area that isn’t coming up to scratch simply use the direct feed just for that small area or spot. It’s quick and easy and does a great job. Depending on how dirty the carpet may be you can even use a stronger dilution ratio to speed things up even more. For example that may be anything from double strength to say 1:4 Just remember not to put too much down otherwise all you’ll achieve is a whole bunch of foam. Foaming is not an indication of cleaning action. It only indicates that you have a lot more product to scrub in and if it doesn’t disappear within a few seconds then you will have to continue scrubbing until you get the desired result. That’s just a waste of your time. It is really a case of too much of a good thing is wasted so always try for a little less rather than a lot.

No matter if you direct feed or spray you can easily fall into the trap of too much foam because the longer it takes for the foam to disappear the longer it takes before you see the true result so always aim to get just a little foaming that disappears within a couple of seconds. Typically high foaming encap products are at the cheap end of the market. They give a false impression of cleaning because the white foam disguises the true cleaning result.

It was no different for me thirty five years ago when we realised that too much foam was a major invitation to rapid resoiling. We quickly realised that to get the best results with the longest lasting clean you had to buy the best product. Then, as now, foaming was kept to a minimum and the results were all the proof we needed. A really good habit to get into is to always go back and check your work after 15 – 20 minutes and you’ll be surprised at what you see by way of little things you need to rectify or re-clean once you look at it from a new angle. This is particularly true if you are buying “economical” encap product. You are kidding yourself if you think you can get the ultimate cleaning results with cheap encap detergents. I cannot stress enough that it’s not the clean you see today that counts it’s the clean you see in six weeks or six months that determines whether your client is going to call you back.

The right sprayer

No, not the pump up!

I can say with confidence that I don’t know any HWE carpet cleaners who apply their pre-spray with a pump up 10 litre sprayer except for those few still living in caves. Hydroforce guns now dominate the HWE market and for very good reason. Speed, efficiency and convenience makes them a must have item for any self respecting HWE carpet cleaner. So if there is one outstanding reason why experienced techs struggle with encapping, I can pretty well guarantee it’s because they are battling with an inadequate sprayer which is usually some type of pump up number. I can’t imagine anything more annoying than encapping with a pump up. It’s slow, back breaking, uneven in application because the pressure continually drops away and grossly inconvenient to continually stop and refill.

Rechargeable 12v vs 240v electric sprayer.

Well the whole idea of encapping is that it relies heavily on getting the right amount of encap detergent down quickly and evenly. To achieve that you need consistent pressure and a 10L pump up won’t or can’t deliver.

A standard 240v electric will however but they are way too expensive, inconvenient to use (where’s that power point? and don’t forget the tag and testing) and usually only 50psi which is too slow for the serious encapper.

So after trialing a variety of 12v rechargeable battery operated units I finally found the best compromise between cost and efficiency. The 16 litre rechargeable unit I settled on has a 100psi demand pump and will take up to 15 metres of hose. I recharge it overnight once a week. Yes, it’s made in China, however I have had mine for nearly two years and it has been absolutely trouble free and reliable. For $229.00 I can honestly say they are the best value for money sprayer available. I know. I have a garage full of alternatives that I have bought in the last four years that vary in price from $600.00 - $1200.00 but can’t match it with my unit because they either weigh a ton or have much lower psi output and capacity. I carry two just in case but fortunately I have only ever used the second one to increase capacity when doing a large commercial to save a bit of time.

The right size spray tip

Let’s make this brief. I have found an 8004 is ideal for carpet and a 2502 for upholstery. 6504 is a little narrow and therefore slow whereas 11004 is way too wide and wets out everything within a 1 metre radius including you. Nothing worse than working in wet shoes all day. Anything larger such as an 8005 or 8006 is OK but you tend to use more product than you need.

The extremely narrow 2502 is perfect for upholstery and means you have far better control with overspray. Don’t you hate it when you spray up the lounge……..and your offsider, the curtains and the TV unit and, and…?

The 10 metre, 5 minute rule

The volatile curing agents in encap products dictate that you have a limited window of opportunity before you lose optimum cleaning performance. In other words the quicker you scrub after spraying the better. A delay of no more than 2 or three minutes is ideal. Therefore limit yourself to spraying up no more than 10 square metres of carpet at a time e.g. one average bedroom. Again this is relative to the degree of soiling and climatic conditions so it would be reasonable to cut this down to 5 square metres for those grotty jobs or when the weather is against you on hot, dry and windy mid summer days. (SA techs please note)

The right amount of encap detergent

OK now here’s where it gets tricky. It’s just the same as HWE and there are several factors to consider including; carpet density and construction, carpet soiling – light or heavy, fibre absorbency and weather conditions.

That said I have no doubt using the right amount of encap detergent would be the number one source of misunderstanding when encapping. Because encap products are much more expensive to buy than pre-sprays (as much as three or four times dearer) the natural reaction is to be more “economical” in the application. BIG, BIG MISTAKE. It’s the first question I ask when I visit a tech on site. “How much encap product would you say you would use on this job?” Without exception the answer usually reveals why the tech is having such mixed results. He simply isn’t putting enough product down…..end of story.These guys have a heart attack when they watch me spray up.

Typically I can use 20 – 30 litres of ready to use (RTU) encap product on a trashed out three bedroom home compared to say 10 litres of pre-spray for HWE with a T/M for the same job. In fact whenever I have demonstrated encap to an ACCI tech onsite, they are nearly always surprised by how much product I put down. In some cases I am using three times more than they do but the amazing results I get justify what I am trying to achieve.

And that comparatively higher volume of detergent usage also explains the second issue for dyed in the wool HWE guys. They have a significant reluctance using “too much” chemical because they are applying HWE rules to encapping and that just flat out doesn’t work. That mindset simply demonstrates a gross misunderstanding of how and why encap works.

HWE and encapping are poles apart. Complete opposites in fact. e.g. HWE is a system relying on little chemical and high water usage to get rid of any detergent residue whereas encapping is the reverse. The detergent residue in encapping actually assists the clean in the immediate and the long term cleaning results. It is the direct opposite for HWE pre-sprays. Getting your head around that concept is difficult for some people and that is understandable. It took years to get HWE right and now here I am saying throw all that away and do the opposite. “Trust me , it’s better” is easier said than done.

However once you get used to the idea that your clients are noticing the superior performance of encapping and that their carpets dry faster, clean better and stay cleaner longer etc, etc, etc AND your profits go through the roof, well it becomes a nice place to be.

SUMMARY

The lesson from this email is to get your product down quickly and evenly and as a rough rule of thumb, use around two to three times more than you would with HWE pre-spray depending on soiling and carpet type, e.g. more on wool, less on polypropylene. Spray up no more than 10 square metres at a time and less in heavy soiling conditions or in hot, dry, windy conditions in summer and most importantly don’t delay more than 2 or three minutes before scrubbing. Avoid over application or cheap encap detergents that create extended high foaming. Check your encapping after say 10 – 15 mins. Walk into the room and look back towards the door to get a different angle and perspective. Take your encap spotter bottle and microfibre cloth with you to tidy up the odd missed mark or spot.

How to Clean a Persian Rug

admin — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 01:20:09 +0000

In many contemporary homes, polished wooden floors are an essential feature of interior design. The best way to showcase these floors is with strategically placed rugs. Oriental and Persian rugs look gorgeous in these proud homes and provide comfort for cold feet.
A quality rug is a valuable asset in the home and easily damaged if not cared for correctly and we recommend that you hire a professional to take care of these for you in order to preserve their quality and beauty.

But if you would like to save some money and do it yourself, here’s how it can be done:

Tools:

Vacuum, Rug beater, mild rug shampoo, soft long-bristled brush, garden hose, window squeegee

Steps:

1: Vacuum both sides of your rug. Then hand your rug and beat out any remaining dirt/dust. Remember, 80% of the soil in rugs can be vacuumed/beaten out

2: Move your rug to a clean, flat space outside for washing.

3: Wet your rug with cool water and test a small area with a white cloth for colour run with your mild rug shampoo. If the colour doesn’t run, shampoo the entire rug, front and back, using the soft long-bristled brush.

4: Brush the shampoo gently into the grain of the rug pile, making sure that the area is entirely wet with the hose beforehand.

5: Clean your rug’s fringes. Using a soft brush and your soapy water, lightly brush your fringe away from the rug. Repeat until clean.

6: Rinse your rug with a hose running cool water. Make sure you completely rinse out all shampoo from the front, back and fringes.

7: Remove standing water from your rug using a clean rubber window squeegee. Run the squeegee along the rug’s grain until you’ve removed all excess water.

8: Lay flat to dry in the shade with plenty of airflow passing over the rug. It is preferable to suspend the rug so that air can pass over both sides for faster drying.

9: Use an oscillating fan to assist in a rapid dry to avoid watermark stains.

10: Remember, you are required by law not to allow waste water to go down the stormwater drain, and if you can manage that as well as avoid inadvertantly damaging your rug in the whole process then you’ve done well.

Happy DIY!

Trade qualifications

admin — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 04:20:03 +0000

Since ACCI pioneered formal carpet cleaning education in Australia, carpet cleaners have always wanted to go one step further with the introduction of government recognised qualifications so as to eliminate the confusion in the industry between the fly by nighters and the genuinely qualified.

The PRM20604 Certificate II and PRM30604 Certificate III in Asset Maintenance Carpet Cleaning represent that long awaited move by the government to formally recognise the carpet cleaning industry with its own national qualifications.

The future for the industry is now set with a meaningful government certification that can only benefit your business credibility, your future marketing and your long term viability. The value of a genuine nationally recognised trade certification cannot be overstated. I therefore strongly encourage every carpet cleaner in Australia to take up the opportunity to become truly qualified in your industry with these courses.

Leo Powell

CEO

Quick Start Your New Business

admin — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 01:23:36 +0000

If you are looking for that significant change of direction where you want to be master of your own destiny, have the freedom of choice and the lifestyle that comes with that then look no further than establishing your own carpet cleaning business.

ACCI has an impeccable record in helping to establish some of the most successful businesses in the country. We have now taken this further by developing a unique program that covers all aspects of establishing and running a carpet cleaning business for the new entrant to the carpet cleaning scene.

Our Quick Start Business Package is the lowest risk, lowest cost way to get into carpet cleaning .

WANT TO FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN START YOUR NEW CAREER?

Call us now 02 43222652

Geraint Davies, Executive Carpet Care, SA

admin — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 23:26:53 +0000

Having purchased a tired worn out business and wanting to turn it into a successful and professional unit, I joined ACCI. With out any doubt ACCIs training and guidence gave me a solid foundation to achieve that aim through the training and guidance I received.

Mike O’Connor, First Choice Carpet Cleaners, SA

admin — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 23:25:39 +0000

I would never go into business without the support, training and credibility that ACCI has given me.

Mark Langrell, Butler Carpet Cleaning, NSW

admin — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 23:24:57 +0000

It’s not the courses. It’s not having the best equipment or presentation. It’s having an ACCI to call on when you need it. That’s the difference.

Removing Red Wine Stains from Carpet

admin — Tue, 01 Dec 2009 13:16:26 +0000

When it comes to household carpet cleaning, there are several types of stains that achieve universal acclaim in being the most stubbourn to remove from your well kept carpet. Our aim here at ACCI is to provide the best service when it comes to caring for your carpets and fabrics, that’s why we bring you some household tips to minimise damage from spills and mishaps on your household carpet.

Red wine is feared in every carpeted household, and rightly so, its highly acidic composition, thick texture and dark tones make it nearly impossible to remove from fabrics after a spill especially if it is allowed to dry. If you make a habit of enjoying a beverage or two in your light-coloured carpeted living room, then you’re bound to encounter an untimely accident that involves red wine clashing with your floor. Here is an old household carpet cleaning tip to help you minimise the damage of red wine to your carpet:
As soon as the spill has occurred, act quickly while it’s still fresh – using white paper towelling make a thick pad of say six or so sections and blot up the bulk of spilt liquid. Repeat as required. Next, apply a solution of white vinegar and water say 1 table spoon of white vinegar in 500mls of water. Blot as before with absorbent paper or towelling cloth/sponge/microfibre cloth/nappy etc. Avoid using detergent as the alkali will react with the anthcyan (the natural dye that gives wine and berry stains their blue colouring) in the wine and turn it bright pink.

An alternative that also works is to substitute the vinegar/water solution with white wine. It works well but is an expensive exercise and painful for dedicated chardy fans.

Keep in mind that a red wine stain can be extremely tedious to remove so successful removal will require you to take immediate action. Once an untreated spill is allowed to dry your chances of successful removal are significantly diminished. If you are not fully satisfied with the outcome of your stain removal you should look to consult a professional carpet cleaner for further advice or to arrange professional treatment of the affected area.

Be Wary of Carpet Cleaning Sharks

admin — Tue, 01 Dec 2009 08:04:14 +0000

The carpet cleaning industry in Australia is unregulated, which means that virtually any novice can start up their own business as a self-professed carpet cleaning professional. While these people deem themselves to be carpet cleaning aficionados, their lack of formal qualifications limit them from comprehensively understanding proper carpet cleaning practices – with “splash and dash” tactics that may seemingly “clean” your carpet at the time, however it can actually do more harm than good in the long run.

Carpet cleaning is a science that requires skills and expertise that can only be obtained with formal training within the field. Discount carpet cleaners are cheap for a reason – you are getting what you pay for. Their actions are as shady as a backyard knee operation, where the intentions seem to be good but the outcome is inevitably bad.

A review on choice.com.au reiterates the notion of un-certified carpet cleaners and their inept skills in treating carpet and identifies a handy checklist to help you identify credible industry certified carpet cleaners:

Is the carpet cleaner a member of an industry trade association and are their qualifications visible?
Does the quoted price seem suspiciously low?
What guarantees are offered?
Does the carpet cleaning business have public liability insurance?

As a consumer, you should be treating your carpet as a long-term asset! A clean carpet does not only improve household hygiene but it also adds value to your house through household presentation. Getting new carpet is a hassle, and can cost up to and including amounts of $6000. Cleaning your carpet once per year is a small price to pay for prolonging the life of an expensive household asset.

If you’re a carpet cleaner running a business without professional industry certification, take an ACCI carpet cleaning course today.